Waterkloof was supposed to be my ultimate birthday treat. Interesting cuisine from a michelin-trained chef with the most
spectacular view of False Bay. The restaurant for me was a typical example of a restaurant doing fine dining but forgetting that you need to deliver on flavour and not just presentation. Also, when I go for fine dining I look for inspiration and a certain type of perfection not just in food but in the experience. I am a huge fan of promoting great suppliers and supporting charities. Yet I have to say I was surprised to see bottles of olive oil on the table with Morgenster labels on then and a streetsmart flyer sitting on the table throughout lunch at a fine dining restaurant.
We had three courses each. Starters of gravad trout, kingklip mousse and oxtail ravioli. The gravad trout was a funny dish. Big pieces of fish and lots of drops of sauces with flowers. There was a lot of art on the plate not much flavour. Not quite sure why you would make a mousse of kingklip given its delicate flavour and beautiful texture. Oxtail was ok, but slightly
on the bland side. Sadly the starters were a lot better than the mains. We had sirloin steak which was dry and bland, sole tempura and quail. The experience with the sole tempura was probably the lowlight of my lunch. It was soggy. I asked the waiter (who turned out to be the restaurant manager) if there is something I am missing here and he said no. I asked him to confirm that the tempura is meant to be soggy. He actually said: “yes we serve our tempura soggy”. After considering it for five minutes I decided to send it back to the kitchen and have something else. The chef sent his apologies, the fish had been fried at the wrong temperature. I appreciate the honesty of that. Mistakes happen. What I got was the tuna with potato risotto. The tuna was a big raw chunk that had been deep fried on the outside and the potato risotto was more like potatosalad. The dish was salty and heavy. In contrast, the deserts were actually flavourful and well prepared. It made me think that maybe the chef’s michelin-starred experience lies in pastry.
The view at Waterkloof is amazing, if you manage to get a table with a view. The day we visited there was a big group of people in the (actually quite small) area with the view. We were instead looking at paintings of diabolic characters attacking Cape Town.
Waterkloof,
Sir Lowry’s Pass Road,
Somerset West
tel: 021 858 1292